Last weekend in Bohol

Getting to Bohol proved more difficult than I thought given my last-minute tendencies. I guess flying last minute is far easier than trying to take a ferry without buying your ticket in advance. I left the house around 7: 30 am, just missing the monsoon downpours that had woken me up at 6 am. When I left, Gen and Keith had returned from their infrequent early morning jogs soaked. Apparently, they had found a little kitten about the size of palm, and looked like it hadn’t eaten in a month. They were feeding it small pieces of sardines when I left. Looks like the family might be expanding.

I took a taxi to Pier 3, as instructed by Don-don. When I arrived, to my surprised there was one ferry leaving at 8:30 am and only about P100! But, I soon found out it was going to Tubigon, rather than Tagbilaran. Since Tubigon is about an hour’s trip from Tagbilaran, I decided to look for the ferry lines that I knew would go straight to where I needed to go. When I realized those were all at Pier 4, I started walking. Within one minute of walking down what seemed to be a service road connecting the piers, I man pulled up on his motorbike asking me where I was going. I told him to the Pier 4, trying to minimize conversation and walk a little faster. He said he was a worker there and he could give me a ride. “For free?” I said, used to by now everyone charging me at least 10 pesos for any kind of transport. But, after I told him the ferry line I was looking for, he said he didn’t know that one, and proceeded to ask people. I started getting frustrated and just wanted him to get me there, especially because I knew the Weesam Express ferry left at 9 am. Finally, he dropped me there, and I said my salamat and proceeded to the ticketing office. To my dismay, the 9 am ferry was sold out, and there was a “50-50” wait list of 42 people! Although I signed up my name, I knew that I would have to find an alternative. I walked over to SuperCat and their next ferry left at 12:30 pm. I contemplated what to do next, opting to go home, but the boys and Gen were already at the bank for the monthly meeting, so I knew I wouldn’t be able to get home easily. I decided to buy my ticket, and just have to wait it out somehow. Gen suggested through text to go to SM Mall, so I hopped in a taxi and was there in 5 minutes. Getting there before the actual mall opened, I spotted a Starbucks, and being a “true IPAer” got my laptop out and ordered a latte and worked for a couple hours. After the mall opened, I decided to wander around and found an airline office where I bought the last ticket I ever have to buy in the Philippines: my one-way ticket from Cebu to Manila for the 31st. I headed back to the terminal around noon to board the boat.

(left) Filipino favorite: The ubiquitous meat on sticks (and the only place to get food at the pier)

The ride was quick and I listened to music and slept to pass the 2 hours. When we arrived in Tagbilaran, to avoid the tourist traps waiting at the port, I headed straight for the tourist information building. Of course, they weren’t too much help, but laid out my three options of transport to Panglao island. I opted for a tricycle, figuring it was the cheapest and most convenient option. Bargaining down to a mere 200 pesos, the ride was bumpy and felt longer than the driver’s promise of 20 minutes. When we arrived in Alona Beach, it looked a bit shabby and the hotel we pulled up in front of was not in the book. Feeling a little lost and didn’t want to be stranded, asked the driver to take me to Bohol Diver’s Resort. When we arrived, it was a big establishment with tight security (if the complete rock and gravel road was not enough deterrence for anybody to venture), and luxurious villas outlining the grounds, complete with a big, airy restaurant, overlooking the beach, a pool, and a beachfront bar. When the front desk woman told me for a room with air-con would be P3000, I thought I might be hopping back in the tricycle for another destination. But, given that I am now part of the NGO world and by myself, I opted for budget roughing it accommodations and settled for the P800 room with fan. However, the one room left seemed to have a faulty door knob. So, I saw at the restaurant and drank a San Miguel Light while waiting for them to “fix” the door knob. Luckily, they had a safe deposit box for laptop. While sitting in the restaurant, I watched sun-burned foreigners sit at the bar on the beach smoking cigarettes, while the chatter of Korean tourists in the restaurant drinking beer for beer and the singing waiters and lady boy staff droned on and on over the videoke machine. It’s not the Philippines without a videoke machine. For those of you unfamiliar with this contraption, it is the ubiquitous karaoke machine with attached TV monitor that displays nature scenery or random white girls in bikinis for every song selected. People living in villages can even rent them for special affairs and parties. After I finished my beer, I went back to the desk to check if the room was ready, since I was anxious to shower and take a dip in the pool. My room is quite bare, with a red, wash-stained concrete floor that I won’t dare step on barefoot, some minor furniture, a big bed, one fan that points and rotates at the ceiling, and a small, Korean-style bathroom – meaning, the shower and toilet are one in the same, so that every time you shower, not only do you get clean, but your bathroom does as well.

I quickly showered and changed into my bikini and beach attire. I went for a swim and as the sun set, sat out on the beach chair with my headphones, letting the warm wind dry me off. After which, I walked down the beach to check out the various beach resorts, restaurants, dive shops along the beachfront. When I first arrived, I was pretty disappointed with the condition of the beach, since I had heard by some Filipinos that the beaches in Bohol were even nicer than the ones in Boracay. I would have to strongly disagree. Although the beach is white-sand, there seems to be a lot of rift-raft washed ashore and the water did not look as crystal clear as it did in Boracay. However, as I walked along the beach, I soon found out that near the Western side of the short strip of beach, the beach front was a lot wider and accommodating to sun-bathers, and of course, those stretched out getting massages. I also noticed that many of the accommodations looked a lot nicer than mine as well. I reached the end pretty quickly just as it was getting dark. At the far end, there was a quaint little restaurant, part of a hotel known as Alona Tropical, that was lit by candles and two men serenading with guitar. It looked like a fine spot to have dinner since I hadn’t eaten all day. I asked about rooms, since the nipa huts looked really nice; however, there lowest price offering for a room was still at least double what I was paying for my concrete block. As I said before, I am alone, so I don’t so much feel the need to splurge, especially given I need to save whatever pesos I can for my big trip to Laos in a week. If I had a partner, though, I would opt for a more romantic and luxurious spot.

I sat at a table on the outside patio and ordered a fresh mango juice, cauliflower with shrimps, and garlic rice. The waitress, after my order, said with a big smile, “You are very beautiful.” The dinner was delicious, filled with many different flavors. After, I sat and relaxed, and one of the waitresses, named Shallymar, came to talk to me. She asked the usual run of personal questions, and then informed me that Monday was their fiesta time. I am witnessed fiesta several times now, including the one time we all went to Sibonga to Toefilo’s house to celebrate. She immediately but humbly invited me to her home for Fiesta Monday morning, if I wasn’t busy of course. She must have felt bad for me since I was alone. Everyone so far has been shocked that I am alone. And while actually, I do feel a little lonely, this is also the first time I have traveled in the Philippines by myself, and given that I am constantly around people, I thought it might be nice to have a little one-on-one time. But, I do miss the fam back in Talisay and wondering what they are getting up to. I am sure if my phone was working, Gen would be giving me updates in texts. I thought Monday, I might try to sight-see as much as possible, making going snorkeling or to one of the nearby islands, but was intrigued by the opportunity to go into a Boholan home and most likely be fed a meal in preparation for fiesta. Shallymar gave me her number so I could call her to arrange when to meet on Monday. I later got to talking with another one of the waitresses about their offers for tours to Balicasag Island. It is about 6 km southwest of Panglao, or a 45 minutes boat ride from Alona Beach, but is considered (by the authority of the “LP,” a.k.a. Lonely Planet) as one of the premier diving spots of the Philippines. It is surrounded by a reef that has been declared a marine sanctuary, so I was informed that it was a great place to go snorkeling. The staff was extremely warm and friendly and offered to look into the cost of the tour given, because again, it is JUST me. She suggested I could go early Monday morning, coming back hopefully around noon or 1 pm, in time to still go with Shallymar to her home for fiesta in the early afternoon. I left feeling that I had made friends, and only wish where I was staying the people were that warm and friendly. I walked back along the beach past strolling couples hand-in-hand, and beachfront restaurants filled with customers eating seafood dinners by candlelight.
When I got back to the room, it was unusually windy, but decided to shower, and then go to the safety deposit box to get my computer and work or write. On my way, I felt a slight sprinkling. After getting my laptop, it was pouring rain. I tried to sit in the restaurant and opened my laptop, but the rain was coming in sideways and starting to sprinkle not just me, but my baby too! So, I waited it out a little and then headed to my room where I could write in shelter, although sweaty, the breeze from the storm and my crappy fan keeps me cool enough to write. The rains continued to pour, and was starting to wonder what tomorrow would bring.